Cambusbarron

Today we went over to Stirling to get some good old cragging on the go for a few hours.

Myself and Gareth went over with Russell coming running behind us. Did some of the classics and also i was put off climbing there with pulling a block section off on Gobi Roof so i was not so keen on climbing after that. I did take a few pictures and will pop below.

Gareth practicing his hanging belay and ropework haha!

Etive Slabs

Weather was amazing when we ventured up to the Slabs. There was a good few of us and my climbing partner was Gareth today. We had been going out about this route for a longtime (well i had been at him) The Pause E1 3*

I kicked on on pitch 1 up and finding it a tad hard with a section still wet, after that Gareth cruised up the second pitch to the Belay point. This is where i got the famous 5b (technical) crux traverse into the ‘Crevasse’ and i must say i loved it. I have known of a good few people who had fell off on the traverse but i even managed a photo in the middle :) 4th pitch Gareth went off route and i have no idea how your ment to route find on a slab as all is a tad ehh.. flat! But yeah he was a good 20m above his gear looking a tad nervous but after me shouting some abuse at him he found a good belay point and we corrected ourself. After that the pitches were good solid lines with amazing friction. The last pitch i handed that over as Gareth loves Crack climbing and it was a ninja line so he enjoyed going up this with ease and leaving me freezing my ass off at this point.

Climb on

Climbing with: Gareth (aka Vinders UKC)

This was taken from the hotel --- Clachaig Gully, our very own route from the doorstep. However, the gully is rarely climbed these days. Maybe the idea of wet slimy vegetation covered walls and the occasional rockfall don't have the appeal they once used to! Or maybe folk are just soft these days!

There you go sums up a dam good climb don`t you think??? We rolled in the Clachaig Pub around 8pm had a good look at the guide book over some good food (bit skimpy on the portions) and booze! After a few hours on Whiskey and beer we decided on the Gully. Easy day and a Classic Route to be had. Next morning rolling out the tent both like we had just slept in the bushes and storming up this hard 10minute walk in (could it all, not just be like this) We skipped in after the Great Cave Pitch and started on our way. It was extremely lose at places and very wet. Gareth took on a pretty full on pitch with the rock being very wet/lose and crossing a slab section, I was impressed yeah scary for myself on the second as there was no gear at that point. After that we were not far from the top and the rain came on, There was no friction at all and it did go into the unsafe side as we had to decide bail out now or make a go for the next slab pitch in the rain. So we bailed. On the upside of it i got a 30m Abseil down a waterfall that was well good fun.

I would say for anyone thinking of this route, 1 week of dry weather and defo make sure it will not rain when your up in it.

Cragging Auchinstarry

Today Me and Gareth were in work at a full shift talking about this years trad really got us. We went over to the local Auchinstarry and knocked a few routes in the snow. Yup SNOW! A few pictures just so you can see what the climbing bug can do to yourself!!!

We then went again a few weeks later with Russell and it was a very nice day so there is some other pictures of Gareth on his new Route

Winter Stomping

Aladdin`s Route

This fine route sits Far right of Jacobs Ladder and it good conditions has some really nice ice. I did this route with Gareth on January the 5th. There was alot of traffic on most routes that morning and Aladdins was the line we could get on as soon as we got there. After getting there the two of us were stuffed with the cold and hungover to admit it.

First pitch Gareth led and there was not much on the way of gear at all, after sitting freezing for a good 15minutes i went about seconding it and found him slung to a huge block. With the mighty Cairngorms wind blowing us around i went up the next pitch into the gully and up to the belay point the conditions were great. Gareth then come up for some good photos from myself and carried on onto some really good ice and onto the belay point. After that we had a cup of tea before last pitch just with the sun going down.

Dorsal Arete Glencoe

Myself, Lawrie and the Heart throb Chris went up to do some winter climbing, we did the walk into Dorsal in good old snail mode. All 3 of us were dying as well our fitness was obv not 100% but Chris was fast at giving out some trail mix hahaha

I found Dorsal i pretty good climb even though i could not feel my hands. Few loose blocks that could kill a cow or you but its expected in winter. Lawrie got the best pictures of the day as you see below.

Sea stack :)

Myself and Lawrie went on the mission down the East coast with our eyes on the Souter Sea Stack. With getting there pretty early and Lawrie on climbing mode we blasted up 3 route a vs,hvs and E1 i found the climbing there pretty odd. My baby hands were sore on the rock and the word sketchy came to mind with loose rock and no belay points at the top. It really was a don`t fall day.

After that we went onto the stack and Lawrie of course was leading this at my head was defo not in the game for it. But in true Lawrie style he went up it like a Fairy while i followed behind like a Cow with a harness on. It was a very good route with a few bold moves on a slab section with only rusty pegs in place. I would say it is a defo go and do but the routes round about the area are on the avoid list!

For the people that don`t know about the hill billy farmer that shouts at us when climbing "remember theres an electric fence up here guys" Well it was dark walking back toward the car and Lawrie plods over and yes went ZAP! Oh yes i laughed! and i still am :)

Etive Slabs- The Hammer

This route is one of the best routes i have ever climbed in my life, A few things to think of though is the Midges, Damp and Gear! The Hammer runs a 150m HVS ***

Climbing Partner: Russell

First two pitches of this route you can argue with me but there very overgrown and going from a good slab into a bush is not my cup of tea. You are just making your way up towards the only tree on that part.
After that it gets real fun as the famous "scoop" pitch is on and there is only steady climbing that will get you across. From then on its a amazing crack line up a nice slab face to the belay ledge. I must point out i did sit here with a guy Ally (AKA Hector) and watch two old guys (one with a cowboy hat on, come falling down the slabs! But this day all way quiet just our mates Lawrie over on Spartans Slab giving us the odd wave.
Pitch three is a funny one i will say, climb a amazing crack till it runs out then move into the middle of the slab and dash for a gear placement. I know Russell will laugh at this as yes this was the second time doing The Hammer but i did fall at this point the worst point to come off :) i did it

with style and come flying down the face but my gear was bomber! After that it was climbing with a sore arse the rest of the day. Top pitch was a bit wet so Russell not known at the time moved off route into no mans land and topped off.

Buachaille etive mor

Today we went up into the Mountains forDavids first Multi pitch and also Russell was there with Jamie.

I took David on Shackle Route a route i had only seconded in the past and enjoyed it very much. First pitch has the crux moves only a few meters about the ground but is well protected. After that its good climbing towards a good belay point. Then across the grass and the second pitch is a crack climb like an open book that i do enjoy.

We also watched some chap soloing Crows Nest Crack so that was pretty sweet :)

After lunch we set about January Jigsaw with Russell and Jamie climbing a pitch behind us. Bumping into some random Irish lass who had come off route on Agags and was clinging onto a block hahaha! oh i laughed. January is a alright route with some major lose and slightly over grown in places as it had not been climbed for a while when i went on it. I did find some micro wires though :) silly people.

EPIC-FACE^^^